Category: Travel

We took a bus from Belize City to San Ignacio, a small town near the Guatemalan border and a hub for adventure activities like caving, tubing, and rainforest canopy tours. We made the trek here mostly to check out Actun Tunichil Muknal, or “The Cave of the Stone Sepulchre,” which we’d heard was the must-see attraction in this part of the world. The cave was once featured in National Geographic Adventure Magazine, and next week the Discovery Channel will be here filming a special.

Often abbreviated ATM, the cave is 5km deep, and it leads to an inner chamber where the Mayans performed sacrificial rites over 1000 years ago. The trek there is an Indiana Jones-style adventure that starts with a short hike and several river crossings to reach the mouth of the cave. The cave is fed by a river, and its entrance is an hourglass-shaped opening with a deep pool of water below. At the entrance we donned helmets and headlamps, stowed away our valuables, got a quick safety talk, and hopped into the water. We spent the next 2 hours or so scrambling over rocks, wading, and often swimming through the dark cave. Our guide told us a bit about the geology of the cave, often pointing out interesting stalactites and stalagmites, and he also told us about the religious ceremonies that took place there.

When we reached the sacrificial chamber, we ditched our shoes and proceeded through with socks on, to avoid breaking any of the artifacts. The chamber contained hundreds of ceramic vessels that were once used in Mayan rituals. We also saw the remains of several skeletons, and our guide described for us in detail how the ritual sacrifices are believed to have been performed (I’ll spare you the details). The climax of the tour was the “Crystal Maiden,” the calcified skeleton of a young female sacrifice victim.

The tour was fantastic – definitely one of the most interesting things I’ve ever done, and I’d highly recommend it to anyone who visits Belize!

Kenny on the first river crossing

The entrance to the cave

Removing our shoes before entering the sacrificial chamber. Our guide gave me a temporary tattoo using a chunk of clay from the cave.

Scrambling through the rocks on the way to the inner chamber.

Remains of ancient Mayan pottery

The “Crystal Maiden”

I saw this banner in Belize City. I don’t know who the message is intended for (and I know nothing about Belizean politics), but it might not hurt if a neighbor to their north got a similar message…

We had been told that you could just roll into San Pedro and easily find a spot on a snorkeling boat for the next day, and that was true. The hostess at our hotel, Ruby’s, made a quick phone call last night and got us on a boat trip to the Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley this morning. For another couple of bucks, she rented us snorkeling gear. Hol Chan features the second-largest barrier reef in the world (if you can guess where the largest one is, you get a cookie).

Kenny and I purchased a waterproof case for our camera before the trip, and we were very excited to try it out. The problem with trying to photograph fish and rays and things is that they keep moving around. :)

Kenny on the boat

The reef

More reef

A pretty blue fish

Underwater traffic jam

A ray. We never figured out whether they were poisonous or not.

We got into Belize City yesterday afternoon and were able to catch the last water taxi from town out to San Pedro, on Ambergris Caye. Supposedly Ambergris is the “upscale” caye; we likely won’t make it to Caulker, so I can’t make any comparisons, but San Pedro feels sufficiently backpacker-friendly to me. There are some fancy resorts further north on the island, so perhaps that’s why Ambergris has its hoity-toity reputation. Ambergris calls itself “La Isla Bonita” after the Madonna song; it is possible although not clear that the song was written about this island (other fun trivia I just learned from that Wikipedia link: La Isla Bonita was originally written for Michael Jackson, but he turned it down).

We don’t have much time here – only two nights, and then onward to the west tomorrow – but I don’t feel rushed. San Pedro is a tiny little rectangle of a town, probably only about four blocks across the skinny part of the Caye and maybe ten blocks long. And very relaxed. This is a place for snorkeling, diving, lounging by the shore, and drinking rum. While we’re officially in Central America, San Pedro has a distinctively Caribbean feel. We’ve been eating things like Jamaican-style jerk chicken and grilled grouper (we found a cheap tasty restaurant called El Patio. Like all restaurants around here, it has a thatched roof and a sandy floor). Most people speak English. We’ve also heard some Spanish and an English-derived Creole.

Most of the tourists here seem to be American. Many of them are young travelers like us, but we’ve also seen families with kids.

Lauren on the water taxi from Belize City to Ambergris Caye

The Caye Caulker Water Taxi Terminal in Belize City

On the deck at our hotel in San Pedro

Kenny and I were expecting to make our Belize/Guatemala trip a fly-by-the-seat-of-our-pants kind of deal: we figured we wouldn’t really book hotels, and would only chart out a loose itinerary.

But I started reading about Tikal, and how it would be nice to have a hotel near the ruins rather than staying in Flores so that we could see the sunrise in the park. Since there are only a couple of hotels near the ruins, I decided that it would be best to book something. So I did.

Then we got to talking about the fact that we’ll be arriving in Belize rather late in the day and we might not want to go traipsing around Ambergris Caye looking for a place to sleep. So I booked a hotel there too.

Three days later, we have hotels booked for our entire trip, except for the last stop in Antigua. My guess is we’ll book something for Antigua soon.

So much for being spontaneous. I guess we are “planners” after all.